Farewell to Chris Staines @ the Foliage

Had my last meal at my favourite London restaurant the Foliage with Chris Staines as Head Chef. Chris was in the last week of his 3 months notice before he moves onto pastures new. Heston Blumenthal will open up his first London restaurant in its place in the Mandarin Oriental in a  years time.

What amazed me was that even in his last week Chris was producing simply breathtakingly stunning dishes…Respect.

Over the years I’ve  had some fantastic meals at the Foliage. In fact I use it as a benchmark to judge every other restaurant I visit. The service there is exceptional and the way Chris uses flavour and texture is the mark of a true artist. I suspect that the much larger replacement restaurant in the Mandarin Oriental will not live up to the high standard set by Chris or indeed Heston at the Fat Duck.

So many celebrity chefs are going down the “franchise” route, with disastrous results. The Abode chain (Micheal Caines) being a prime example and don’t get me started on how awful Harveys is (John Burton Race).

I’d like to thank Chris and his team at the Foliage for giving us many memorable meals (It was my experience of eating at the Foliage that got me interested in food) and to wish him the very best for the future. I just wish he was staying in London as his talent will be sorely missed.

Marks out of 10

Food 8

Service 9

Ambience 7

UPDATE : Chris Staines is now Head Chef at the Allium Brasserie in Bath

40|30 at the Gherkin – the high life!

I was lucky enough to be able to book a table at the 40|30 Restaurant in the Gherkin, Norman Fosters landmark building.

This is normally for private dining only, so not easy to get in, but if you ever get the chance, go for it.  The views and the architecture are breathtaking, the photographs do not do it justice. However what really surprised me was the food, it actually managed to compete, we went for the tasting menu with matching wines, so not a cheap night out by any means.

 

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Alle Murate – Art for Arts’ Sake!

Alle Murate is one of the most unusual and interesting restaurants I have been too for a while. Unfortunately that comment does not apply to the food, which was out of keeping with the surroundings. It should have been modern cutting edge instead it was rather staid.

The restaurant is situated in a amazing set of rooms and has a 500 year old fresco on the ceiling and upper walls, it is a non religious one, which is quite rare.  In the down stairs part of the restaurant under the Plexiglas floor there are some excavated Roman ruins.

Dinners are given headsets for self guided audio tours. It is quite surreal. Definitely worth a visit for the Art work alone.

Click here to access a selection of Videos

Marks out of 10

Food 6

Service 6

Ambience 7.5

 

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Ristorate Dorando, San Gimignano, Tuscany – Faux Gourmet!

Situated in the beautiful Tuscan medieval hill town of San Gimignano, Ristorante Dorando is the place that first got me using the term “Faux Gourmet”.

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San Gimignano

I use it to apply to places that have all the apparent trappings of a gourmet restaurant, i.e., the look, the prices and the marketing hype, which then subsequently fail to deliver anything close to the level of food or service expected in real gourmet restaurants.

Marks out of 10

Food 4

Service 4

Ambience 4

 

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Cibrèo – Is there a translator in the house?

Cibrèo is a very cosmopolitan venue – we had a Chinese couple on the left of us and some Russians on the right.

The staff are geared up to handle multilingual customers, they have to be, as Cibrèo has no formal menu. Instead the waiters will list and describe the food on offer.  I had pigeon which the waiter carved and then presented to me a massive “so called” pigeon bone. It was actually a glorified bread stick, but this just reflects the fun approach that is typical of Cibrèo.

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The size the Pidgeon would need to be to match the bone, this one is at Pisa Airport, beware!.
The size the Pigeon would need to be to match the bone, this one is at Pisa Airport, beware!.

Marks out of 10

Food 7

Service 7.5

Ambience 8

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Parc des Eaux Vives – a bit of a surprise!

My first visit to the Michelin starred restaurant at Parc des Eaux Vives, a small 5 star hotel on the shore of Lake Geneva was with some trepidation.  After some disappointments on the culinary front in Switzerland I expected to spend too much money on mediocre food.

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The table had been booked a month in advance for Saturday lunch time, we arrived at the beautiful venue, got escorted to the lovely dinning room and found we were actually the only guests, it did not bode well!

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As soon as the amuse-bouche and the amazing seaweed bread arrived we knew we were on to a winner.

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We finished off a delicious meal and moved to the terrace overlooking the gardens and the lake, taking time to enjoy a small bottle of PX .

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So as the first experience was so fabulous we returned, this time staying as guests in the Hotel and much too my surprise they had actually upped their game. The restaurant was still not full, just a few tables set up outside on the small terrace, which made for a lovely atmosphere. The food was superb, and beautifully presented, this place really merits its two Michelin stars.

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We also tried the Hotels more informal restaurant “The Brassery”, which was OK, but nothing to write home about. Oh yes and they upgraded us to a suite, so all round it ended up being great value for the money.

UPDATE : March 2010 – This restaurant has sadly closed. See :-
Genevalunch.com

 

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